A Good Philly Burrito? Mission (Not) Impossible

I love Mexican food. Beans, rice, and spice are the staples of my diet anyway, so naturally it's a perfect match. But when it comes to Mexican restaurants, I have to get past the (usually) tacky decor before I'm a happy camper with a bean burrito and some salsa. Then, it's all gravy.

This is not true for people from California (aka Justin). They have a different standard that I just cannot grasp; it's like they can taste the efforts of a corn fed, California-raised Mexican cook, and the food's just not the same without it. Perhaps I would feel the same about a cheesesteak made in San Francisco but I doubt I would approach the matter with the same fervor (regardless of the fact that I don't eat beef). So if I've learned anything, it's this: don't try to make Mexican food for Californians and if you do, you'd better call it something else.

And that brings me to today's discovery. We were hungry, driving around the western suburbs among the endless sea of strip malls and standard array of fast food pits, when I saw a bright beacon of hope - Mission Burritos. I knew things were going to be good as soon as we approached the sunny exterior accented with fresh potted spring flowers and saw the sign advertising it as a "California Style Mexican Grill". If nothing else, I knew Justin would be glad to know his people - Mission Burrito is named after the Mission district in San Francisco - are representing locally. That should keep him happy, right? Well, he'll tell you in a minute.

Mission Burrito has an extensive menu with a standard array of carnivorous, vegetarian, and kid friendly options. They emphasize fresh seasonal ingredients, no lard or MSG, extra avocado is an option for every dish and fresh pico is the sauce of choice. I ordered the Vegetarian Burrito and was quite satisfied with the balance of grilled vegetables, pico de gallo, black beans and a rice that was spicy and salty enough for my strong palette. We also indulged in the salsa bar which was good but slightly frustrating. I think that chips and salsa should be included with the meal, but the price was low enough for me to willingly pay the extra cost to have the multiple salsa options. The atmosphere of the restaurant was appealing and comfortable, with a tastefully hip, casual decor with carefully considered details. You can tell these people are really trying to give you something authentic and I can always support a local restaurant that cares about the little things. I'm excited about this new discovery and when it comes to dining, I encourage you to try something new. You'll never know what you're missing if you don't. [[jessica]]


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So here's the thing about most Philadelphia Mexican restaurants: no matter how good the food is - and frankly, it's usually pretty crappy - it always kind of feels like you're having dinner at a terrible suburban theme restaurant. Sombreros as artwork, waiters dressed like bi-curious matadors; it's not so much dinner as it is "a dining experience emulating the authentic taste of Old Mexico." You know what I'm saying. And for what it is, it's, you know, fine, whatever. But let's be clear about one thing. That is most certainly not "authentic." Now, I wouldn't say that I know a lot of Mexicans, but I'm from California: I know a lot of Mexicans and I have yet to roll over to someone's house for enchilada night and see a freaking hat hanging on the wall.

So perhaps you'll appreciate my skepticism when we had family day at Target and decided to stop for dinner at Mission Burrito (32 Baltimore Pike, Lansdowne PA, (610) 622-6900). Everything about this place was a warning sign: Strip mall? Check. Suburbs? Check. Big festive hat on the sign? Check. With great trepidation, I parked the car but as we approached, I felt something unexpected: hope. The interior decor was understated and tasteful - stainless steel counters, tile flooring, and mustard walls with burgundy and midnight blue accents - and there were live plants surrounding the front door. Save for a small set of American options, the menu stuck to the basic burrito-taco-quesadilla trinity with only a few additional essentials (carne, flautas, torta, etc.). Most exciting, though, was the collection of press clippings in the front window that alerted me to the fact that the owners are from San Francisco and that they're trying to recreate a "California Style" restaurant. And that's when it hit me: It felt like hope because it felt like home.

California design, no doubt, but what more can I say about the food that Jessica didn't already say? Our burritos were quite good, stuffed to the breaking point with fresh ingredients and an outstanding hot pico, and reasonably priced ($6.59 for her veggie, $5.99 for my beans and rice). The black beans were especially good, tender and saucy but still firm and hearty. I can also get down with the fact that Mission Burrito uses no lard or MSG, so you really taste the flavor of the ingredient rather than the additives. All six sauces at the salsa bar were well above average although special kudos should go out to the spicy verde; I'm usually not into green sauce but this was good enough to make me reconsider. My only real complaint with Mission Burrito is that they charge an additional $1.25 for the salsa bar. I don't know if I've ever paid extra for sauce before, and that seems a bit on the stingy side to me.

This was, by far, the best Mexican food I've had since I moved here - not good enough to crack my top five all-time (Corrales, Ventura; Los Cantaros, Oakland; El Farolito, San Francisco; La Burrita, Berkeley; Papalote, San Francisco), but we're already making plans to go back and I suspect that this one will quickly make its way into our regular Philadelphia dining rotation. Recommended. [[justin]]